Mar 21

Great Escapes

Lands of Light : The Timelessness of Three Scandinavian Capitals
By Tim Wassberg

Scandinavia is a land of light bathed in cultural intrigue. Life is brimming, the cuisine is delectable, and the views are splendid as one travels to its three capital cities: the industrial cosmopolitan Copenhagen (in Denmark), the frigid beautiful Oslo (in Norway), and the exquisite angular Stockholm (in Sweden).

Arriving in Copenhagen (www.visitcopenhagen.com/) aboard a Scandinavian Airlines flight via Chicago, a train speeds one into the heart of the city. The Radisson SAS Royal Hotel is tastefully enveloped in the design of the 60s with its space age marvel and nouveau riche style. As night begins in the red light district, a dinner of tart Austrian wine, exceptionally tasteful veal and tender scallops followed by rich crème brulee at Cofoco (www.cofoco.dk) heightens this writer's senses. After touring the effervescent sculptures at the Carlsberg Glyptotek (www.glyptoteket.dk) the following morning, The Royal Cafe (www.theroyalcafe.com), with its checkered and porcelain décor, offers a Danish delicacy known as "Smushies" which combines varieties of small open-faced sandwiches with shrimp, salmon, and meat that are succulent to the core. After secretly being allowed to paint an expensive plate at The Royal Copenhagen (http://www.royalcopenhagen.com/), the resilient mermaid that blessed our travels was seen in the Copenhagen harbor. Dinner commenced at the purely green Biom (www.biom.dk) where organic essences flowed and candles flickered. The castles of Danish Kings at Christianborg and Rosenburg provided parallels of country and urban living with jewels to liven the vision. A brisk sprint up the Round Tower (www.rundetaarn.dk/engelsk/frames.htm) in the middle of the city gave an unparalleled view of Copenhagen's splendor (along with a lack of breath). Herring was in full force as the lunch rush commenced at Nyhavns Faergekro (www.nyhavnsfaergekro.dk) where Belgian partiers toasted as the buffet bar of pickled fish gave way to an intensive meal of eel, eggs, and multiple integrations of smoothly consumed aqua vite. A walk back through the narrow and fashionable shopping district greeted the sunset (and cleared the lungs). That night, the Fox Kitchen (www.foxkitchen.dk), bathed in house music and motley colors, offered infused cocktails with supper to complement the course progression from tasty greens to delicious lamb to a decadent rhubarb desert. At the recommendation of Fox's, humble owner: Gromit, we proceeded to Ruby (www.rby.dk/), a lounge hidden away from the palaces, which provided killer concoctions (like the Tongue Jacuzzi and the White Cherry Martini) with unrivaled musical ambience.

Unlike the more socially minded Copenhagen, Oslo (www.visitoslo.com/) is more tranquil in its setting. Dipping below the clouds, the white blanket of Norway comes into view. Whether viewing the first Viking ships (www.ukm.uio.no/english.php) or taking a leisurely walk through the magnificent city park at Vigeland (http://www.museumsnett.no/vigelandmuseet/eindex.htm) with its beautifully carved sculptures, Oslo becomes a treasure. Having received its first full-blown snow of winter in the days before, a panoramic view of the emblazoned city from the room greets this visitor at the Radisson

SAS Scandinavia (www.scandinavia.oslo.radissonsas.com). At dinner that night, the Theatercafeen Restaurant (www.theatercafeen.no), bathed in an old school glow with violins singing throughout its expanse, reveals itself. The shank of lamb with garlic gravy and potato puree purrs divine as it melts in the mouth. Heading up to the Holmenkollen Ski Jump (www.skiforeningen.no/holmenkollen) (which can be seen lit up at night from the Radisson); the city imbues itself under a cover of clouds as the sunbursts through the crevices. After visiting a snowboarders' heaven at Tryvann Winter Park (www.tryvann.no/), the magnificent bounty at De Fem Stuer inside the Holmenkollen Park Hotel (www.holmenkollenparkhotel.no/) enraptures the palette. From its bountiful buffet with eggs, herring and shrimp to the exquisite beef tartar, the cozy yet extravagant space takes no prisoners, which is only enhanced by its unparalleled view of the fjord. As darkness falls, the twinkling lights of Oslo encompass the Summit 21lounge atop the Radisson as drinks are poured. Good times continued at Restaurant Havsmak (www.havsmak.no) where anecdotes flowed and laughter belied. The unbelievably fresh cod, wrapped in spinach with a light sauce, tantalizes the taste buds after a starter of lusciously prepared scallops and German Riesling. As the witching hour approaches, a late night combination of aqua vite and hearty Norwegian beer at the hospitable and warm bar Lorry (www.lorry.no/) soothes the savage beast.

The final Scandinavian capital: Stockholm, Sweden (www.stockholmtown.com/) is illuminated in avant-garde architecture and old world splendor. After a lunch of Swedish pastries and delectable salmon, a vivacious walk through the picturesque Old Town with its chocolate shops, cafes, toy stores and hidden alleyways gives credence to the city's magical elements. The Radisson SAS Strand Hotel overlooks an extensive harbor radiating in soft light. From the room, it feels like you're flying over the world. The Gyldene Freden (www.gyldenefreden.se/), a traditional Swedish restaurant, tucked away nearby, is hidden like a secret. In the wine cellar where ships' wares were once traversed, the soothing comfort of roe covered in a crème sauce with reindeer steak and capers gives way to a delicious cod in a honey sauce surrounded by snow peas. Later in the evening, the festivities continue at Berns www.berns.se/), a converted operatic theater, which hosted a party for an international design summit. Mood music prevailed and wine was poured as our compatriots, bathed in red, danced into the night. The following day, after braving a brisk wind and sampling a hearty soup aboard the Icebreaker Agantyr through the harbors of Stockholm, the city, coated in a light rain, proceeded us to the Absolut IceBar (http://www2.absolut.com/icebar) for evening cocktails. Integrated inside Stockholm's Nordic Sea Hotel and kept below freezing, the liquid ice that pours from frozen glasses inside this small lounge tingles the tonsils as the blue décor melts in your hand. The energetic bistro element of Restaurant Kungsholmen (www.kungsholmen.com) culminated the trip with a hearty portion of ox cheeks in a boulebase sauce with vegetables and potatoes. But, as the fog rolled into the harbor, the refined elegance of Riche (www.riche.se/en/) and its champagne mingled with the dark ecstasy of The Spy Bar (www.thespybar.se/) where the smoothness of a drink called "The Manchivas" cooled the senses and crowned the final evening.

Heading home in the luxury of Economy Extra aboard Scandinavian Airlines (www.flysas.com/), sleep came provocatively creating the essences of three different and scintillating capitals, each encapsulating their own perfect world, written in the ages.

St. Augustine Adventure in America's Oldest City
By Sheila O'Connor

The winch makes a loud clunk and I look at the two girls harnessed by the legs to the metal arm of the parasail. They smile nervously. I watch as the boats picks up speed, the parasail billows in the wind and, with a sharp tug, is launched heavenward--its yellow sail inflating like a huge marshmallow in the sky. The girls, now whooping and shrieking with delight, are pulled at a brisk pace--up, up and away into the sky. Their legs scissor up and down and their looks of apprehension have changed into grins of pleasure. Pretty soon, they're floating far behind the boat until they're nothing but small dots in the sky with a huge, yellow smiley-face parasail floating above them. It's my turn next. Gulp. Will I enjoy it?

Is this the Caribbean? No. This is St. Augustine, oldest city in America and right here - in Florida. It's also THE place for some of the best soft adventure around.

Just take that parasailing for instance. First timers are very welcome (I was one of them) and people go up to 1,400 feet sitting in pairs. You're only in the air for 10 minutes but it seems longer as you float effortlessly, great views surrounding you and nothing but the gentle air swishing past your ears. And of course, you're perfectly safe, the harness keeps you secure. For me, all too soon the rope yanked as the winch started turning and my experience of how the birds observe the world, came all too quickly to an end. Did I enjoy it? Absolutely. I did it with apprehension. Now I'd do it again without hesitation.

If flying high is not your style and you'd rather stay safely onshore, then check out the horse riding on the beach. The horses from Sawgrass Stables plod leisurely along the beach, waves gently lapping their legs. June McDonald, who runs the one-hour tours say, "The horses are all like children, all with their own personalities, all eager to be the most important one in the pack. Sometimes you just have to tell them off!" she smiles. Most of June's horses are of retirement age and these trips along the beach keep them active but without the rigors, many younger working horses have to endure.

And on the beach, you won't have to worry about St. Augustine's famous resident - the alligator but they shouldn't be left off your list by any means, however. You can see them up close and personal at the St. Augustine Alligator Farm and Zoological Park - check the two albino alligators in residence. It's said they're worth $50,000 each.

Back to soft adventure and you can continue with it on an easy-to-learn kayaking experience at Guana Lake with Kayak Adventures Inc. On our trip, we saw the occasional submerged eyes of a lurking alligator, but they kept mostly to the edge of the swamplands. The kayaks need to be paddled in the middle of the water, away from the alligator eyes, so you're safe. Great arm exercise on this one.

And while it's understandable you wouldn't want to get into the water here, you most certainly will at the Marineland Dolphin Conservation Center, where you get to swim with their dolphin residents. You can feed them too. You can't help but stare into their open mouths and admire their well-kept teeth - wonder what their secret is?

For sheer leg power, nothing beats a walk up St. Augustine's unique lighthouse. Half way up, look at the bucket the lighthouse-keeper used to carry up 219 steps with him every day. No doubt, it saved him the cost of a gym membership!

Who'd have thought that America's OLDEST city could give you experiences to make you feel so, well, re-NEW-ed? No wonder that parasail logo is a smiley face. You'll have one too, after adventuring in St. Augustine.

www.getaway4florida.com