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Great Escapes

Visiting Las Vegas: Dollar and A Dream - The Four Queens Hotel, Dining, and Casino
By Jesse Schmitt

Nevada is a dusty state. While there are other cities in the desert landscape, there is one city in particular which rises up like a twinkling phoenix, opening up into a desert oasis which leads its newer residents and visitors alike to phantasmagorical alternate realities of one's and zero's as they each wait for their magic moment to come.

I'm talking of course about The Old Painted Lady; Sin City; The Strip; Old Downtown and all the other myriad complexities which go along with the high stakes, free money lifestyle which is only just a roll of the dice, spin of the wheel, flip of the card, toss of the chip, or pull of the lever away from being a reality

"All it takes is a dollar and a dream." While the old lottery slogan of days past may not really be all that applicable in the corporate managed, heavily stacked odds against the player on today's Strip, there are still fortunes being won and lost every day and no matter what you hear on the time share infomercial "Las Vegas IS calling;" it's always open and it's always welcoming of nearly everyone.

On a recent visit to Sin City I was able to enjoy some interesting restaurants and stay at some previously off my radar locations. Full of life, personality, warm greeting, and an indicative charm, I arrived skeptical and left feeling grateful for the opportunity and further enriched for having gone.

Hotel: The Four Queens - The spot where I stayed on my brief visit to Vegas was The Four Queens Hotel and Casino. Located in the "old Downtown" section of town, The Four Queens Hotel and Casino is privy to a number of fun physical traits and neighborhood characteristics.

To start the Four Queens has been around since 1966 at 202 Freemont Street, but the whole place has recently undergone a full renovation. The building is old but many of the appointments are new. That means large, expansive suites in the old, high way with new beds and the low ceiling and dim light of old world Las Vegas with flat screen televisions. Four Queens is also located on the Freemont Street corridor which is an open air area which is closed off to vehicular traffic and enjoys an impressive jumbo-tron screen which extends several city blocks and has animated shows every hour in the evening until midnight. In addition there are bands playing out on the main stage quite often, so it's like there's always something going on.

Dining: Magnolia's Veranda at The Four Queens. While this is more just standard diner fare, the food at Magnolia's Veranda is really something special. Overlooking sections of the main gambling floor and open 24 hours a day, Magnolia's Veranda is available for a quick bite to eat or a full late lunch, or their knockout breakfast. Get there fast in the mornings though or you'll find yourself at the back end of a very long line. However in the middle of a caffeine fueled all-nighter of slots and table games, the Veranda at Magnolia's is open anytime for a quick bite or a full refueling.

Dining: Hugo's

Hugo's Cellar was another dining enjoyment my wife and I were able to partake in at the Four Queens. The menu includes a number of seafood offerings like Salmon, Chilean Bass, and Swordfish as well as Veal Marsala, Beef Wellington, and the ten oz Filet Mignon. For a little something different give their Raspberry Chicken or their Beef Wellington a try. Also The Cellars Champion Chateaubriand and Lobster for Two is well suited for winners but the Scampi "Hugo" (jumbo shrimp, garlic, green peppers, sun dried tomatoes, white wine and fine herb sauce) are a worthy consolation for even the sorest loser at your table.

Hit the Accelerator
The Adventure of Eastern Kentucky
By Tim Wassberg

Kentucky is the land of bourbon and horses. But look a little closer and you might see some adventure. This land of bluegrass gives way to waterfalls, rock-climbing and all-terrain vehicles. When you go up the side of a mountain at a 65-degree angle, "balls" becomes a word in your throat. There is a time to relax and a time to play but there can be no fear.

Arriving in Lexington, Ramsey's Diner was a first stop. Wild Turkey is a staple of Kentucky but by no means the only guy (or girl for that matter) on the block. Country fried steak, covered in gravy with sautéed spinach and topped off at the end with peanut butter pie, quickly made the grade.

After a quick stop to induce some local Rebel Yell, we found ourselves at Hemlock Lodge at Natural Bridge State Park (parks.ky.gov/findparks/resortparks/nb/). rise. Ready to go. Eastern Kentucky is known for rock-climbing, which you wouldn't think of off the bat. Being a little dodgy about heights, this journalist still strapped on the harness at Red River Outdoors (www.redriveroutdoors.com/). You can do as much or as little as you want. The first ledge is an accomplishment but the key is that it is all about trust. Falling back is the hardest thing to do...and the most rewarding.

The Natural Bridge was next. Rising nearly 1000 feet straight up, this formation is not for the squeamish but getting up there can be harrowing as well. The Sky Lift (www.naturalbridgekyskylift-and-giftshop.com/) progresses slowly up the mountain and then goes straight vertical. The Hemlock Lodge seems but a tiny speck from the top. The tour was guided by local naturalist Brian who brought us through the necessaries of the area and then for a quick spin through Red River Gorge.

The next morning, we boarded a refurbished bus for our water tour with our aptly nicknamed guide: Papa Smurf. His Sheltowee Trace Outfitters (www.ky-rafting.com/) provided the adventure for the day. We first jumped onto a raft and misted ourselves near the roar of Cumberland Falls at its nadir then hopped on the local scenic railway (www.bsfsry.com/) which snakes around to Blue Heron, an old coal-mining town where bathhouses were a luxury and the days were long. BBQ lunch came in a red bandana Fuel was needed to head down the long river.

Papa Smurf and his posse pushed us forward on the kayaks. They were sleek but a burnt traveler will always turn over the boat for a laugh. Seven miles down a river always shows stamina. The water was low so getting out is sometimes necessary. Boats do sink but only by your own doing as your trustworthy yet devilish paddler found out. But our knowledgeable guide helped rectify the situation with some simple physics. At the end, falling into the water was a given as some locals engaged in horseplay and heated debate over the local swamp gas.

Dinner at the Riverview

at Cumberland Falls (parks.ky.gov/findparks/resortparks/cf/) was all about the Hot Brown; definitely heart attack in a dish but tasty nonetheless with bacon, turkey and lots of melted cheese. Even the raccoons outside the window on the overlook were salivating. Fires burned later that night as ghost stories were told. The girls made smores with marshmallows melting in the simmering fire, pitchforks at the ready.

The last day was one of All Terrain in Harlan County. At Ridge Runners (rr.kyoutdoors.com/), it is like a big party running up into the mountains. Your intrepid travel guide ended up blasting off in a big-ass rock scrambler with a Jeep-type chassis and monster wheels. This bastard goes over everything. The bottom of the hill was for the faint of heart. The top was for the bad boys. After traversing a mud pit on an ATV with a wily older woman named Cricket, Baker (my hellion driver/compatriot for the day) proceeded with two other brave vehicles on a rock road straight up the side of a mountain before parking on a sheer overlook which produced an "Oh Shit!" out of yours truly. We stopped to watch different groups maul their axles while your own adventurous writer managed to scamper his way out of crushing point from beneath a skidding four-wheeler. After getting stuck in some trees through some fault of our own, Baker pulled out the stops and took us straight up the "mother of all trails" called, aptly enough, "Creampuff." This bad mofo raised at a 65-degree angle and it was hardcore. Revving that engine to full RPM, the car itself caught air straight up before crashing back down and slamming into the side of the mountain. No flip though. Your faithful narrator then proceeded to climb out and work the winch to achieve the zenith. Rock. And more rocks.

Kentucky is a land of fun, adrenalin and pure good old-fashioned fun. The people of Kentucky work hard...and they play hard. Mint Juleps concluded the trip with bourbon beer and a bit of the White Lightning. But the key to Eastern Kentucky, which was our port of call on this trip, was that life is too short. Push down that accelerator when you can and floor it.

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