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May 14, 2010

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Culinary Connection

ON SUNSET at the LUXE HOTEL
By Gerry Furth-Sides

Whenever I'm asked to suggest a restaurant convenient and pleasing to both valley and town, or impress out of town visitors, there is only one answer (and it is minutes away from LAX): ON SUNSET at the beautiful minimalist-retro boutique Luxe Hotel, just off the 405 freeway.

Stylish and oh-so appealing with intimate dining indoor or al fresco and Chef Olivier Roselle's seasonal fresh California fare ("with a splash of French") ON SUNSET always brings to mind the famous A.A. Milne (pooh books) poem:

"Halfway down the stairs is a stair where I sit
There isn't any other stair quite like it"

Chef Olivier's menu is a tough one: you want to order everything. .It alone would easily lure me to his restaurant although, better than that, I became acquainted with the food of dashing, cheerful Chef Oliver at several charity events since the Luxe Hotel is a community supporter.

Especially for such a fashionable place, dishes are practically and competitively prices and portions are generous enough to share a taste whether it's at a regal business breakfast, brunch or spiffy holiday dinner. (I once dashed home to copy their elegant breakfast grapefruit salad, which, alas, was the main thing I took away from an important morning business meeting).

One recent sublime and memorable dinner started with a Tempura Soft Shell Crab, Asian salad perfectly dressed in wasabi vinaigrette ($12). The crab (in winter, yet) was crisped and succulent at the same time, and the wasabi dressing gave the greens a gentle, tingling kick.

The magnificent Herb Roasted Rack of Lamb ($28) was accompanied by olive oil mashed potatoes, caponata and a purple mustard sauce. A Thyme- Roasted Alaskan Halibut, saffron orzo, "baby" ratatouille, lemon- caper sauce ($23) was strikingly colorful with yellow saffron and a sprightly ratatouille. It must be Chef Olivier's French background.

Of the housemade desserts ($6-8), the lavender panna cota was a cream dream, and the highly touted Almond financier lived up to its reputation.

Anyone would be would be happy eating those same dishes every day except two more mouth watering entrees caught my eye on the menu that I can't wait to try: Braised Short Rib Risotto pork glaze, shaved parmesan, extra virgin olive oil ($20) and a Monkfish Bouillabaisse Style special with lobster, clams and scallop in a tomato-saffron broth swiss chard and pilau rice ($23).

The ON SUNSET "Chic Sunday Jazz Brunch" is perfect for mother's day. The menu labeled as "decadent" includes, as always, complementary bellini, mimosa or glass of champagne. Moms receive a $25 certificate to the Luxe Spa and kids can "Build A Bear," ($12 or1/3 the retail price).

Culinary classics complement spa cuisine favorites and individually prepared savory dishes. A fish and seafood station overflows with decorated glass platters on vertical trays included housemade smoked gravlax and smoked fish. International omelettes can be made to order at another station, and a Viennese table features an array of croissants, artisanal breads and pastries.

Dessert station choices range from made- to- order crepe, waffles, blueberry pancakes, chocolate, bananas, fresh fruit and berries, syrup and chantilly cream, desserts, cakes, fresh fruit and confections.

Adults $50 o Seniors $40, Children 10 and under $25, Children under 3 are complimentary, Sunday, May 9, 2010 o 10am to 3pm. Non-holiday brunch prices: $34 for adults, $28 for seniors and $24 for children under 10; children under 4 are complimentary. .

The new "Take Flight off the 405" series in the Lounge introduces Happy Hour Wine Flights, with a friendly, light bite menu by Chef Olivier, week-days, 4:00 pm- 7:00pm, with prices to match ($4.00-$7.00), and 3-2oz pours for $6, of a rotating selection of international wines.

A member of Luxe Worldwide Hotels, the 160 room, pet-friendly hotel sits on seven acres of lush, pristine property with a Zen-inspired Spa.

Luxe Sunset Blvd Hotel, 11461 Sunset Boulevard, Bel Air, 90049 (310) 691 7584. Reservations are recommended. For information visit www.luxehotels.com.

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