Summer Cooking Camp

"Learn to Speak Italian, One Bite at a Time" though June 20
By Gerry Furth-Sides

This year Southern California diners are invited to celebrate Italy's 4th of July, known as the "Festa della Repubblica, " which commemorates the 1946 Italian election to institute a republic instead of a monarchy.

As only the Italian can do, the event is marked with food and wine in a spectacular dining series, Learn to Speak Italian, One Bite at a Time, running through June 20. Special prix-fixe lunch and dinner menus feature the finest, authentic ingredients and wines. Six of the most celebrated dining destinations chosen by the Italian Trade Commission and Italy-America Chamber of Commerce West include Drago, Valentino, Il Moro, Locanda del Lago, Caffè Roma and Il Grano.

"The Italian Trade Commission and Italy-America Chamber of Commerce West selected the restaurants based on the quality and authenticity of Italian products used in the kitchen (at least 50% from Italy), the presence of Italian chefs and sommeliers, and the presentation of an Italian-centric wine list, explained Angelo Bocchi, Trade Comm-issioner, Italian Trade Commission;

Consul General of Italy, Mr. Nicola Faganello reminisced about how Italian cuisine has moved into an international sphere, recalling one of the first olive oil tastings in China a decade ago. Another development is how prestigious southern Italian cuisine and products have become, usually thou-ght of as rural fare. "Of course," he joked, the north has now become famous for Lago di Como or 'Lake of Clooney,' referring to the landmark made household familiar by the actor.

"Global market expansion has also led to some confusion about authenticity, suggests engaging Il Moro owner and a chef, Elio de Santo, "and what is marked as "Italian cuisine."

"And we are also in the midst of an evolving our cuisine, best known for its classic tradition, with fresh, organic products from the farmers markets and our own garden, he adds. "Learning Italian One Bite at a Time" demonstrates how we have met the challenge of keeping quality and all the healthy, tasty aspects of Mediterranean in our new dishes. After all," he points out, "the Slow Food movement started in Italy."

The menus reflect a healthy competition among chefs as well. Elio laughs, "this continues from Italy's once fiercely aggressive City state rivalries, and more currently between north and south. As you know," he beams, "from my area of Napoli came the internationally popular pizza (the first in honor of and named for Queen Marguerita) now deemed even more regal through an official Guild standard."

The names of the dishes are inviting enough. A beautiful summery anti pasto from Sal Marino of Il Grano is Pannacotta alle Fave con Insalata di Granchio, Fave, Piselli ed Asparagi (creamy pannacotta, Dungeness Crab, English peas, favas and Sacramento Delta asparagus).

For Primi, the renowned and popular Celestino Drago, owner/chef at Drago. created Cecaluccoli con Pomodorini di Salina, Melanzane e Pecorino (homemade pasta, cherry tomatoes, eggplant and Pecorino cheese). Locanda del Lago introduces chef, Roberto Maggioni's gorgeous, deep-rose colored Risotto al Gorgonzola "Dolce Latte" con Barbabietole Rosse e Gialle Gorgonzola "Dolce Latte" (Risotto with Market Red and Gold Beets).

Il Moro's sumptuous $25 menu by chef Angelo Zarbo follows the restaurant's philosophy of "enticing the diner to try many new things in smaller portions with a lower price."

Appetizers include Eggplant mousse, baked with mozzarella, basil and tomato sauce;

Their Secundo includes a Fresh salmon, pan sautéed lightly sprinkled with 'sale di Cervia' sea salt from Italy, served with wild arugula and marinated tomato with garlic and thyme.

Giampiero Ceppaglia, chef at Caffè Roma features a Polipo e papate (grilled octopus with finerling potatoes.

For Dolce or dessert, Davide Giova, pastry chef at Valentino created a colorful, refreshing La Cassatina di Ricotta Siciliana con il Sorbetto di Fichi d'India (Sicilian Ricotta Cassata with Prickly Pear Sorbet).

The treasured Valentino ristorante Owner-Host Piero Selvaggio was among the first to introduce Italian dining and products to Southern California, and his trips to Italy with legendary fellow restaurant owner, Mauro. He laughingly recalled, "When I opened 35 years ago, I had to include the then-popular "Contin-ential" dishes to get customers to come at all."

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