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Spring Break at the Farm
By Gerry Furth-Sides
The New Crop of Southern California Farmers Markets Make History
The simple but alluring Farmers Markets "farm to fork" concept of stall vendors hasn't changed for centuries. And who doesn't love shopping in the fresh for tempting fresh produce and fragrant flowers just off the vine, with farmers right there to help you?
But leave it to us in Southern California; every new variation makes for a kind of healthy fun, from farm stand to a new indoor "farm to floor" model, Henry's Farm Markets opening in Warner Center, combining the best of farm market and grocery store.
That Farmers Markets take us back to local roots is nothing if not reassuring in this time of economic and social uncertainty. The startling thing is that farmers markets started gaining momentum during the height of the high tech revolution, when transportation and communication advances were moving at the same time toward a global economy that makes available almost any type of food any time.
So feel good about yourself when you shop; you're help small farmers stay alive in "what even then was an increasingly hostile world of commercial agriculture," as one writer aptly put it.
Stand and Be Counted
It didn't really matter that the original 1934 southland farmers market turned into the famous Farmers Market, enclosed by artisan stalls and on its way to shrinking into a produce stand among restaurant stalls. Farm stands replaced farmers markets until the '70s because of a law requiring California farmers to send any produce they weren't selling on their property to a packer to be sorted and inspected for standard quality, noted food historian Charles Perry tells us.
Up in Camarillo, Phil McGrath's family farm of 40 acres was just known as another neighbor a few generations ago. Today, framed by the farm in back, he operates one of the many fruit and vegetable stands still dotting all over the valley. His contemporary version is sweet with a gabled roof and beautiful landscaping, a step above what's now required by the law. (Ventura Boulevard near Central Avenue). And Phil is well known not only by individual customers at farmers markets he sells at, by every chef in Southern California for his outstanding organic produce.
Another farm stand on a farm features play dates along with fresh produce. Having gone through several names, for a long while it was Tierra Rijada, you can find this venue listed as the popular Underwood Family Farms in Somis and Moorpark. (www.underwoodfamilyfarms.com)
You can still shop in their old, open sided shed well stocked with seasonal produce. You're still invited to "say hi" at the Farm Animal Center and "pick-your-own produce activities," pumpkin carving pumpkins at Halloween. New are a score of children's activity like the one where kids clamber all over hay bales stacked to the sky. The kids love it. Tours introducing families, city slickers and young students to working farms are a wonderful educational tool that skipped a generation or two.
Next best to a visit, Underwood Farms participates in 12 Certified Farmers' Markets throughout Southern California. (see their website for a complete list). At the Moorpark market, Underwood has a U-pick with kiddie rides.
To start your own garden, an annual zany spring tomato event is now identified with the famous Tapia Brothers Farm Stand. Billed as "Angeles' oldest garden traditions meets one of its newest sensations," TOMATOMANIA! seedling sales April 4-6, 9-5PM each day. Visitors can taste a variety of tomatoes and pick up seedlings with a choice of over 300 varieties. Tapia Brothers Farm Stand at 5251 Hayvenhurst Ave. Encino, CA (818.905.6155) with ample parking.
These days, as commercial ventures swallowing up farms, the number of farm stands has declined, but they appear unexpectedly along a curve on the road for a quick pick me up - like the ones on Kanan Dune Road as you head up the canyon during growing season.
To Market We Go
All things good for the farmers markets came together in the late 70's. In 1976, Gov. Jerry Brown came up with a package of "consumer reform" bills, one of which created a system of certified farmers markets where farmers could sell uninspected, unsorted "field run" produce, just as if they were at a farm stand on their own property.
Then up north in Berkeley, Alice Waters opened Chez Panisse, touting the idea of fresh, simple and elegant eating, followed shortly after with Spago in L.A. with pretty much the same philosophy. And within months, a few folks near LAX revived the old-fashioned farmers market itself in a Gardena church parking lot, and the farmers market was back in business.
This time the market survived and the concept thrived, and today there are 4,000 in the United States, double the number from a decade earlier
A Farmers Market in a Farm
One of the last farms left in the San Fernando Valley, The Pierce College Farm Center in Woodland Hills offers the community traditional agriculture farming while growing to incorporate a themed environment for families to explore, learn, and have fun.
New this year is a Certified Farmer's Market opening Thursday April 23rd with fresh produce from local farmers, various vendors offering specialty items and prepared food as well as fun activities and entertainment for the family. Well lit and open 5-9 PM each Thursday night through the end of September.
"Our vision is to incorporate a certified farmers market within our existing farm operation to provide our community a unique connection to other local farmers who are at time providers to our farm stand during various times of the season," explains, Robert McBroom, The Director of the Farm Center. "Our mission is to provide locally grown produce and if it does not come from our farm, it comes from a farmer we know. We now can offer a new way of providing more varieties of fresh produce to our customers 7 days a week in our own farm market by utilizing a shared opportunity with other farmers each and every Thursday night. Everyone should know where their produce comes from, here you can also talk to the farmers who feed your family."
Spring time at the Farm Center begins March 21 as the Farm Market opens from 10am to 6pm daily with the best of the best in strawberries. The market offers "Albion" as well as the newest strawberry variety called the "Monterey." The classic farm market is located on a 22-acre working farm and a 6 acre agri-tourism public area offering the community an opportunity to connect to agriculture. Utilizing a balance of fun activities such as a real merry go round and a small train ride with an animal farm and agricultural demonstration area, enabling guests to have fun in a real farm setting while learning a little about where your food comes from.
Themed programs are available such as "the pizza farm" with a 125 foot pizza growing each slice to demonstrate where a variety of toppings come from. Tomatoes grow for our sauce while a milk cow demonstrates where our cheese comes from. Adventure Agriculture demonstrates the relationship of animal, vegetable and mineral in a fun interactive farm tour. These themed agricultural programs are available through Field trip programs, Birthday parties, and private events. Come to the Thursday Night Farmers Market from 5-9 pm and see what the Pierce Farm Center has to offer.
The Pierce College Farm Center is located at 20800 Victory, at the corner of DeSoto and Victory in Woodland Hills. Parking is Free. Open 10-6 pm, 7 days a week.
How One Farmers Market Became a Model for "Farm to Floor" Markets
One farmers market combines the best of the markets -- open air, super and health food - in an indoor "farm to floor" model. It evolved out of Henry Boney's own farmers markets. Opening this spring, Henry's Farmers Market, (21821 Ventura Blvd, Woodland Hills, California, 91364) is the baby of in a family of 30 friendly, authentic natural food stores in San Diego, Orange, Riverside and San Bernardino.
The reviews are in: Henry's Market has been named the "Best Health Food Store" by readers of the San Diego Union-Tribune and the "Best Place to Buy Produce" by Orange County Register readers.
Like the open air markets, the store prides itself on its relationships with customers, and has earned a reputation for exceptionally fresh produce at very practical prices. On my first visit to check out the place, I filled a shopping basket with lush fresh, unbelievably low priced herbs. Right by my side was a staff member ready to answer questions.
Henry's kept its focus from open air market days on "local,"" sustainable" and "seasonal" produce. A full-time Henry's produce director in the small company solicits from local farmers and vendors. But being an indoor market, Henry's carries produce from Chile or Mexico "to have things available for everybody," explains spokesperson, nutritionist and health food expert, Janet Little.
"Dealing with local farmers can mean higher prices without agro-industry volume, and small farmers are at the whim of nature," acknowledges Little. "But if you eat with the seasons, you'll see that even organic produce is equal to or less expensive than "conventional" fruits and vegetables. She challenges you to the special healthy "Six week diet" at Henry's Market. In the end you also actually save money."
And there are other reasons besides price to eat with the seasons, says Janet. "Our bodies have developed and evolved with foods of the seasons. For example, squashes are rich in beta carotene and other nutrients that are helpful in cold weather. It's surprising to realize that only in the last 50 years have we started to import foods from other regions.
A 20-year veteran of the health food industry, this licenses nutritionist also writes newspaper columns and is a frequent TV guest. Little heads up the friendly team of well-informed staff members. A model for how her own healthy diet also promotes an active lifestyle, Little competes in marathons and triathlons, and is in training right now for her first Ironman.
With Henry's since 1996, Janet is on a mission to teach that "great taste and healthy meals are synonymous. "Now is a good time because of the economy," she notes." I come across so many more people looking to cook everyday dishes at home for the first time to save money."
Henry's encourages people to try new items, which when they purchase them leads to more variety on the floor. Grains are a striking example for Janet. "For years, people just had a choice between brown and white rice; now when I lecture most people even know about quinoa (newly introduced grain highest in protein)."
Along with leading store tours, Janet invites topics for store lectures and questions. (Contact her at 619-647-6179 or janetlittle@henrysmarket.com
As an indoor market, Henry's also has the means to keep customers in the know with their Market Mailings. Current news is about the first strawberry crop on the horizon.
Known for their fresh local strawberries, the Henry's Strawberry Jam Festival," celebrates the season on March 21.
And finally, Henry's Market, has their own delicious in-house made sausage, meals to go for sale, shopping baskets, is comfy even in foul weather, has a parking lot out front and -- your choice of paper and recycled cloth bags.
Behind the Scenes
Rest assured, all markets abide by the strict laws regulating all 105 markets in L.A. county. Farmers must be certified by the county agricultural commissioner, sell their own produce and grow it in California.
Produce is sold fresh daily so what happens to unsold produce? Harry's Berries never sells "next day" produce; they make preserves. Lots of the farmers take advance food orders on Mondays and Tuesdays from chefs -- and make calls to chefs when there's plenty on the table at the end of the day. "Farmers feed it to their animals or compost it," Market Manager, Laura Avery says. "So you can say it's recycled in its own way." She pauses and smiles. "One of the farmers told me he has the best fed pigs in the state."
Shopping Tips
Sample! Walk around the whole area at least once to every farmer. Chances are that if you taste a fruit and learn about it first hand, you'll use it at home. Remember that things change from week to week, even with the same fruit or vegetable so you can get the super good variety of the week.
Know your limits! From my veteran shopper cousin, attorney Jeff Green, who sighs that " it's just too beautiful to leave behind" to Angeli Restaurant owner-chef, LA SLOW FOOD MOVEMENT founder and popular "Good Food" Radio Show host Evan Kleiman, who admits, "I still wind up with a fridge full of extra food, its easy to overshop and then stop going.
It's happened me over and over. Now, I make soup with what's left in the fridge or I only buy flowers.
"There should be a shopper support group!" is another solution proposed jokingly by Avery, who now vows go with a recipe in hand. When she goes overboard, she rationalizes "I always remember that when I shop I'm not just buying food for myself, I'm supporting a farmer.
And above all, have fun!
Valley Farmers Markets
Studio City: Ventura Place, between Ventura and Laurel Canyon Boulevards, 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. (818) 655-7744.
Encino: 17400 Victory Blvd.,
8 a.m. to 1 p.m. (818) 708-6611. www.onegeneration.org
Northridge: Northridge Fashion Center, Tampa Avenue south of Plummer Street, April through Oct. 24, 5 to 9 p.m. (805) 643-6458.
Calabasas Farmers market in Old Town, Calabasas, on Calabasas Road just west of El Canon Avenue, across the street from the Sagebrush Cantina. Plenty of free parking, the 11-year old market opens every Saturday, rain or shine, 8 AM. to 1 PM (818) 591-8161.
Simi Valley: Simi Valley Town Center Mall, 1555 Simi Town Center Way, , (805) 643-6458.
Calabasas (Old Town): 23504 Calabasas Road, at Mulholland Drive, 8 a.m. to 1 p.m.
Thousand Oaks: McCloud Avenue and Hillcrest Drive, 403 W. Hillcrest Drive, rooftop of Conejo Recreation & Park District building rooftop, 2 to 6:30 PM. www.vccfarmersmarkets.com (805) 529-6266.
Pierce College Farm Center. www.piercefarmcenter.com
(818) 999-6300 Ext: 21
Location: A complete list of Farmers Markets can be found at: http:www.latourist.com