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Culinary Connection
The Buggy Whip: Your Father's Steakhouse - at the Same Prices
By Gerry Furth-Sides
Dining at The Buggy Whip is a classic experience from the minute you enter and are greeted by a hostess and impeccable, charming French owner Paul or veteran professional server, Tony, usually gliding between the two cavernous dining rooms worthy of a high end resort lodge.
Tucked into one dining room is a long and very popular bar, where guests and servers greet each other by their first names and there are always, always tables pulled together for special occasion parties. Peter Wagoner plays the piano from a royal middle spot of the room Tuesday through Saturday.
Dark woods, brick, and red leather booths dominate, softly lit by shoulder-height shaded lamps to flatter every diner when the light is reflected off of pink linen tablecloth service or the stained glass window in the front. Service is family-friendly and highly professional without being overdone.
One of the oldest, continuous operated restaurants in the southland, the Buggy Whip remains on a winning streak, earning two "Los Angeles Magazine Top 10 Steaks House;" "2006 America's BEST Steakhouse by ZAGAT Survey" awards. Touted for its bone-in prime rib and Florida stone crab claws, each could hold its own against any steakhouse in town at double the price. "Satisfyingly succulent, juicy, tasty, toothsome"only begins to describe them.
On any day menu prices are as retro as the décor and customers revere their steak, Prime rib, lobster tail (alone or in combinations) and juicy, sweet Colossal Stone Crab Claws. Live Maine lobster served at lunch is 1 1/4 lb for $11.50 a la carte. For dinner, there is a $29.95 dinner of two whole Maine live lobsters (1 ¼ pounds each) - $10 less than retail market price. There are Australian lobster tails (2 half pounders) for $39.95, and a giant lobster tail of 28 oz at $ 68.95 or less than half of any toney high end eatery.
How does owner, Paul Darricarrere do it? "I own B.W Seafoods Inc." he laughs. And you can tell he still loves the business wholeheartedly.
Cuisine is "continental and dinners include clam chowder or soup du jour a better choice of a crisp cold green salad with the house signature green goddess dressing (we could only guess capers as one of the secret ingredients); choice of rice pilaf or potato: bakes, fries or signature garlic mashed finished off with a quick oven bake; a fresh vegetable, and hot sourdough rolls and muffins.
Appetizers are classic: escargots, oysters on the half, mussels. Silky imported smoked Scottish salmon served with all the trimmings. Pounded calamari steak is remarkably tender and tasty, sautéed in a light scampi butter.
Highlight of the long (and yes, wonderful old-fashioned, long cardboard menu) are the Prime steaks, grain fed steers aged for up to eight weeks. Delmonico, New York Sirloins and Filet Mignons are favorites, with extra big cuts of New York Sirloins, also served with lobster. Jumbo pork chops, fresh sea bass, sand dabs, fillet of sole, Atlantic Salmon, and shrimp with lobster tails, salads and pastas are a few of the alternate choices!
A rich, dense, heavy classic New York cheese cake and a fluffy light Tiramisu are almost too much to mention after such a meal.
Buggy Whip, 7420 La Tijera Blvd, Westchester CA; (310) 645 7131 Open 5 days from 11:00am, weekends from 4:00pm.
Easy access off the 405 freeway (airport close). Ample free lot parking.
"Twilight Dinners," 4:00pm-6:00pm ($13.95) Mon-Thurs. Happy Hour (Mon - Fri from 3:00 - 7:00 pm). Small Plates (Small Plates $4, $5, $7, $11 bar area only served all day). Banquet room.
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