Doing It Their Way
By Kathy Highcove
 
We've all heard that something old plus something newbrings good luck to a new marriage. Perhaps the same combination of tradition and innovation can be a happy combination for an established eatery, newly acquired. The present owners of Giuseppe's Ristorante, Terry Gallagher and Matt Eck, strive to combine the familiar features of an Italian "family-style" with new trends popular in today's restaurants.
Giuseppe's anchors the West Hills Plaza at 23701 Roscoe Blvd. The interior of the diner reflects the combination of tradition and modern times:  the room has a cozy old world feel, but the carpeting, booths and cafe curtains are spiffy 20th century materials. Even the cutlery is a new curved design comfortable to the hand when cutting into meat dishes.

Matt and Terry are young folks wise enough to respect and learn from the Pisa family - who operated Giuseppe's for 25 years.  Terry, an experienced caterer, humbly followed Francesca and Giuseppe around the kitchen for weeks, writing down the recipes and the drill for meal presentation.   The young couple knew that decades of experience in the same location would supply the new management a ready-made customer base.  However, one had to learn the favorite dishes to keep the customers coming back for the anticipated cuisine.

We took a seat at a table with a view of the cozy triangular patio.  We saw a few diners happily sharing a bottle of wine as they chatted.

After making our entree choices, we strolled over to the soup and salad bar. We spooned out bowls of white bean soup as our first course. We found the mild bean taste enriched by overtones of ham flavoring.  When finished, we quickly returned for a plate of salad. The crisp greens waited in a family reunion- sized bowl next to iced containers of several condiments and two kinds of house dressing. We alternated our mouthfuls of soup and salad with slices of bread and relish made with fresh tomatoes, basil and garlic - Bruscheta and Foccacia on the menu. Seconds at the salad bar were available but we thought it wise to save room for the main courses.

When ordering, I chose the salmon special with steamed broccoli and zucchini, simmered in a lemon wine sauce with capers.  My companion decided on the shrimp scampi served over linguini with a flavorful butter-garlic sauce.  The salmon was fork tender, and the shrimp moist and supple mixed with forkfuls of buttery pasta.  As we sat savoring each bite, and thinking good thoughts of Chef Paxtor, Terry brought us a new house wine called Bella Tavola.  We tasted and then chose it to accompany our meal.  It was not overly sweet, but pleasantly flavored and appropriate for the whole family.  Matt assured us that the house Chianti is also a favorite with regular customers.

Terry demonstrated her pastry training with two special desserts:  Warm brownie Sundae and apple Bombolini.  The brownie was layered with chocolate syrup, vanilla ice cream and whipped cream.  The apple was a flat confection like an open faced pie with vanilla ice cream, whipped cream and butterscotch sauce.  Mama mia, what a treat!

We noted that Giuseppe's atmosphere is very friendly and relaxed - the kind of place to kick back after a busy day.  On weekends families come for early dinner, and in the evening hours, the scene changes to low lights, drinks and dinners for two.

Like any quality neighborhood restaurant, Giuseppe's welcomes large happy groups who want to celebrate a bar mitzvah, wedding reception, retiree or birthday party, or a special wedding anniversary.  One can imagine the tables seated with smiling guests as they raise their glasses in unison to the honored couple.

Frank Sinatra softly crooned "My Way" as we took leave of Giuseppe, Terry and Matt.  We felt assured that the retired owners and the new team at Giuseppe's Ristorante will make "Our Way" work every night of the week.
 
Giuseppe's Ristorante
23701 Roscoe Blvd., West Hills
91304
(818)716-7894
www.giuseppedefusco.com
11:30 to 2:00 p.m.               
Mon - Friday
4:00 to 9:00 p.m.               
Mon - Thurs
4:30 to 10:00 p.m.               
Friday
4:30 to 10:00 p.m.               
Sat
10:30 to 2:00 pm               
Sunday Brunch
4:30 to 9:00 p.m.               
Sunday
Menu Prices:  Appetizers - $2 to
$6; Salads,
Sandwiches& Calzone - $6 60
$7;  Pizza - $6 to $18;
Pasta - $7 to $12; Entrees - $12 to
$16; Desserts - $4 to $5