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Culinary Connection
Gourmet Gaucho Fare
By Kathy Highcove
The busy evening traffic was forgotten when we entered the Pampas Cafe. My companion and I admired the strikingly colorful photographs and modern paintings on walls painted in hues of melon, tangerine, guava gold, and latte brown. Tomato red tablecloths completed the look of the Argentinean bistro.
Owner Neil Ward welcomed us and escorted us to the kitchen to meet the other two co-owners: Ward's mother-in-law Ramona Rodriguez and wife Lorena Olivera. We found the pair busily assembling three decker cookies for the evening dessert menu. Chef Francisco Capetillo took a brief break from the grill to say hello. These four individuals make up the managing and culinary talent of the Valley eatery.
The owners of Pampas Cafe hoped to recreate the atmosphere of a neighborhood restaurant in the Argentinean grasslands. Ward explained, "We wanted to offer a warm comfortable environment where diners would enjoy authentic Argentinean fare."
Pampas Cafe opened 15 months ago in Granada Hills. A second Pampas Cafe opened last year in Sherman Oaks. Both cafes offer customers dishes featured in Rodriguez' catering business. Ward was inspired to open Pampas Cafe after sampling the dishes Rod-riquez prepared for private parties.
"I told Ramona your Empanadas belong in a restaurant setting. Valley diners will love them," Ward remembered. "And I knew my wife Lorena dreamed of opening her own restaurant. We decided to act and make the dream come true."
Pampas Cafe has built a loyal following. Valley patrons have acquired a taste for the seared meats and seafood prepared by Chef Rodriguez. Especially popular are his Mixed Grill entrees: Parrillada Patagonia, Parrillada Pampas (skirt steak dishes), and Seafood Parrillada. Mrs. Sandy Klein of Granada Hills, a frequent patron, recently enthused: "The skirt steak is to die for...it's out of this world."
After our tour of the premises - we noted a separate party room - we were eager for our official taste test of Argentinean home-cooked food. My companion and I sat and soon nibbled on soft double rolls accompanied by Chimichurri parsley sauce and a Salsa Criola made of diced tomatoes and onions. We felt happily insulated from the rush hour traffic visible in the wide street side windows.
Ward disclosed that Pampas Cafe has rec-ently acquired its liquor license and offers a selection of beers and Argentinean wines. We asked for a sample. Ward brought us two types of Cabernet Sauvignon that he predicted would subtly complement the intense flavors of broiled meat, veggies, and seafood of our Argen-tinean entrees. He proved correct, as the evening wore on.
We first shared a generous wedge of baked Spinach Tarta - Argen-tinean quiche - accompanied by two Empanadas. Empanadas contain moist chunks of beef and vegetables in a savory broth, baked in a crescent shaped crust. The pies, a customer favorite, also come filled with chicken, ham and cheese, eggplant, mushroom and creamed corn.
We next requested specialty entrees of the Pampas Café - gaucho fare! Ward complied with Tilapia Papillotte: Grilled white fish with spinach, ginger and diced veggies, and Pollo Pampas: Grilled chicken breast covered with chimichurri sauce and broiled tomatoes. The fish and chicken, seared to seal in juices, had a familiar outdoor barbequed taste combined with a spicy difference.
We pushed on with our culinary adventure and asked for more samples of Chef Francisco's renowned skill at the grill. We soon beheld his majestic mixed Seafood Papillotte arranged in a deep serving dish - mounds of steaming grilled seafood and vegetables on a pillow of rice. Ward explained that this dish is served to small groups as an appetizer or an entree. We sampled the delicious salmon, breaded tilapia, shrimp, scallops, and calamari - then reluctantly threw in our napkins and asked for take home boxes.
As we sat sated, Ward also mentioned that Pampas Café caters private and corporate parties, grilling at the site. The restaurant supplies all of the ingredients. The cost depends on the number of people served, and the chosen menu. Great office party idea, I thought. Festive fun for the coming holidays!
Before our exit onto busy Balboa Boulevard, we paused and tried the triple decker cookies - couldn't resist the chocolate filling between two sweet baked layers, dusted with powdered sugar. After a few bites, we were energized enough to rejoin the rushing throngs on the Valley boulevards. I felt like we should be saddling up after our robust gaucho fare.
17003 Chatsworth Street
Granada Hills, CA 91344
818.832.0700
5242 Van Nuys Boulevard
Sherman Oaks, CA 91401
818.990.0411
Dining Take Out Catering
www.pampascafe.com