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Moravian Essence & The Life of Praha: The Czech Republic Experience
By Tim Wassberg
The cool breeze slinks through the streets of Prague. Upon arriving at the center of the Republic (czechtourism.com) on Czech Airlines (czechairlines.com) through JFK, the early morning visage is pink and thunderous in nature. The streets, heavy with dew, bring the
Clarion Congress Prague Hotel (cchp.cz/pages/en) into focus. Six hours in tailwind encourages sleep but the night awakens to the streets as the metro creeps through the interweaving lines. Inside Vinarna U Sebestiana (usebestiana.cz), David Bowie croons as the Kelt Stout poured from the tap relaxes into the midnight.
The Pendolino Train (scpendolino.cz) rockets to Olomouc past the stockyards of yore. At the receiving train station, the visage of the defunct Soviet Union can be seen in the old school concrete statues stuck in time as commuters read papers in short seats. Stramberk (stramberk.cz), 30 miles away, is protected like a fortress with the imposing Truba Tower peering out over the land. Ascending the staircases to the heaven-like belfry, life peers through wooden curtains into the valley with stacked houses as Dalmatians guard. Lunch at The Gong Hotel (hotel-gong.cz) integrates delicious garlic soup mixed with soft croutons and pork marinated mildly with red cabbage, gravy and potatoes washed down with a dark Kozel beer to cleanse the palate as strawberries bathed in cream soothe the soul.
The Tatra Museum (tatramuseum.cz) in Koprivnice shows high-concept cars including high speed snow vehicles from the 30s and military vehicles contorted like space age all-terrain battle tanks trapped in a James Bond world. As twilight dawns inside the Business Alley Hotel (hotel-alley.com), the disco house music videos of Novinky Ocko permeate the room. Dinner encompasses avocados stuffed with seafood, tasty with texture, along with salmon and flaky apple strudel as the Pilsner froths with energy. Out on the cobblestone streets lit by pulsing lamps and moisture, the alleys breathe with the cool. The Garage Pub, just around the corner, invites us into its hallows where affordable Pilsner comforts in the dark recesses as Baltic metal music pierces through the thumping kisses of whispering smoke.
Walking through town the following morning, the cathedral of Vaclava Dom rises into the sun. In the nearby Kavarna, In 1767, Mozart wrote his 6th Symphony looking out through these corridors which are rich with culture and inspiration for the creative. The town square, replete with an astrological clock, screams with enthusiasm and violas in the morning mist as a Moritz brew with a degree of sediment and Orion white chocolate begins the day.
The mazes of silence spread through the garden of Kromeriz (mesto-kromeriz.cz) like the lost world of "The Shining" where people disappear into the distance. If you listen, the souls of the past can be heard from the pillars. Kozel is poured as a community of rich parsley potato soup is ravenously consumed. The pork topped with cheese, potatoes and spinach within a thick consommé sauce tastes of wonder and a richness of garnish followed by a bread pudding replete with cream. A visit to the Archiepiscopal Chateau (azz.cz) shows the grandness of the courtesy extended between kings and czars. One room specifically, the Grand Hall, was used as a central filming point for the Oscar winning film "Amadeus". As a fashion show gears up in the main reception, the meeting of history and modernism continues. The light sinks in the sky and a Striska cake from Stanislava Gunikova is shared on the grass.
In Brno, the party begins in earnest with the Moravian frivolity of Nebesky Mlyn (nebskymlyn.cz) as screaming violins and xylophones of dark romance fill the main room. The creamy and hearty potato soup with cabbage and broccoli combined with shredded pork is a godsend with a potato puree side that is supremely filling. Stevorice is toasted with a grand element of court as the Polish contingent, intense and fun, clink glasses with abandon and nostrovia. Mor-avian wine is generously offered for late night interaction and seals the ride as Freddie Mercury sings in spirit with the rhapsody of Bohemia. The casino beneath the Bobycentrum (bobcebtrum.cz) was calling as Pilsner (and vodka shots for the Russians) accelerated private VIP Bowling while the slots rang, pins tumbled and the laughing of the countries from Eastern Europe to America combined into a crescendo.
Light continued in Brno with the Spielberk (g) Fortress that leads into the heart of constructionism as the quiet and distant streets shimmer the vision with peace. With an essence of quiet reserve, the citizens stand resolute. Later in Jihlava, kids stand on the corner as salutes are maintained with a gentle dismissal. Nika Atrium (nika-atrium.cz) offers a T-shaped court with the Big Chief drinking Pilsner and holding the head of power while stuffed pork wrapped in brie with frites along with a chicken-spiced soup satisfies. Strawberry crepes with bananas and strawberries trickled with chocolate sauce pepper the dreams as the countryside fades away.
Prague came back with a vengeance. The epic breath of the central Castle reaches to the sky overlooking the wonder of the city, both old and new in its thoughts, as the history of centuries past floats through the eyes. Wine grows on the hills below the steeple as the river sneaks through the interior of the town. Hidden within the castle, Franz Kafka wrote swirling metaphors of lives lost and golden gains. Nearby, walking across the Charles Bridge, the water of the Vltava River glows with twilight as the grand architecture of the capital melts in concert with the setting sun.
The food of U Karlova Mostu (ukarlovamostu.cz) on the banks welcomes the night as a pig roasts in fire. The spicy rapture of venison and potatoes with cheese-covered cauliflower and draft Kozel continues with a taste of hot wine and cherry. The Vodouch ship (prazskebenatky.cz) sails in darkness through the canals of the city as minions sing the gifts of a "Yellow Submarine" with cool air hitting the skin. The early evening at O'Che's (oches.com) wafts with Pilsner and new Metallica as the subway is found via puzzles. Under-ground architecture swirls as a new non-stop "S" Bar is found around the square from the hotel Diplomat (diplomathotel.cz) where politics and wine informs.
The late start made the square damp with rain. Erdinger Stout at Restaurant Kamenny Stul (kamennystul.cz) warmed the senses while the hot absinthe shot at Bloody Freddy, inhaled and consumed, brought forth memories of song and smell. U Vejvodu (restauraceuvejvodu.cz), an official Pilsner Urbequell spot, dazzled with food. The Czech potato soup and gazpacho teased as handmade pretzels hung at the table. The Bramborovy, mixing roasted pork crebes, white cabbage and potato dumplings, filled with vigor. The Utopenci Spekacky, a sausage pickled in the center dill with vinegar, is made to be consumed with Kozel Draft making wonderful companionship. The Pohoda Bar races the subway with another Pilsner as dress-up time began.
As the dancing at the Diplomat continued into the night with movement down to the floor from Lionel Richie to Abba to Travolta and back on the wings of madmen like your humble narrator, the late night conversions of Prague paint a picture of love and growth in a city where the history of old beauty basks in the essence of the new. Lifting off from Praha, drinking the aperitif of Becherovka, the life below continues to sway and bloom to its own rhythm.
Reno and Lake Tahoe, Expect the Unexpected at America's Adventure Places
By Sheila O'Connor
Think of Reno and you probably think of a lot of little old ladies going there on a day trip out with the aim of spending their day on the slot machines.
But there's more to Reno than that. Lots more.
Naming of the Town
The town was named for General Jessie Reno who was a civil war solider. The town became famous in the 1860s when silver was discovered a mere 30 minutes away. This started what became known as the "Rush to Washoe".
History and Divorce Town
But more surprising might be the town's divorce history. In the late 1800s and early 1900s, the Riverside Hotel capitalized and benefited from the divorce trade. This was at a time when divorce was virtually unknown and was certainly never encouraged anywhere else. Potential divorcees would come to Reno from all over the world, stay for their six month residency requirement and then be "Reno-vated" (yes that was the word they actually used). People would come just to get divorced. In some ironic cases the judge who divorced a person could then turn around and marry them to their NEW partner!
After the Stock Market Crash in 1929, the divorce residency requirement was reduced from 6 months to 6 weeks. Reno as a divorce destination gradually died out in the 1950s and 60s when other cities made it easier to get divorced.
Riverwalk
The river area in Reno has been completely overhauled. Pools have been created that are good for trout and wildlife, not to mention the hordes of people who come to eat lunch, play their guitar or to kayak in the turbulent whitewater park. The Riverwalk District is Reno's unique downtown neighborhood of art galleries, restaurants, specialty shops, boutiques, coffee houses, theaters, hotels and historic buildings.
Festival
And should you be in town for the 3-day, Reno River Festival in May, you also won't be able to take your eyes off the innumerable rafts bravely defying the rapids, in a strenuous attempt to win first place for their charity. The race began in 2004 and hundreds of spectators line the railings overlooking the Truckee River to see which of the six-man rafts will make it to the finish line first. Learn from the best by taking a free whitewater clinic--all levels are catered for from beginner to advanced. The professional kayak competition is a major component of the three-day event.
Indian museum and artifacts
Others who love the water include the Pyramid Lake Paiute Tribe. You can gain an insight into their life at the Pyramid Lake Paiute Tribe Museum and Cultural Center. The Paiute Tribe's reservation is located 35 miles northeast of Reno in a remote desert area and it's close to Pyramid Lake. This lake, in the middle of the desert, is entirely enclosed within the boundaries of the reservation. It's well known with fishermen who love its hefty cutthroat trout. It is well worth a visit. Take a guided boat tour and visit the namesake pyramid and Anaho Island, a National Wildlife Refuge where American white pelicans can be spotted. You can't go onto the refuge but you can observe its inhabitants.
National Automobile Museum
The advent of the car has not been forgotten. Check out the National Automobile Museum of Art, which houses cars owned by the rich and famous, including John F. Kenn-edy's 1962 Lincoln Continental Convertible and Al Johnson's Cadillac. It even has a 1938 Phantom Corsair rumored to be the inspiration for the original Batmobile. This one-of-a-kind Phantom could reach 115mph and had futuristic touches throughout. It was designed by Rust Heinz of "Heinz 57 Varieties" fame.
Understandably, this museum, with over 200 antique, vintage, classical, special interest and one-of-a-kind automobiles, has been called one of the "Top Ten Automobile Museums in the Country" by Car Collector Magazine.
Nevada Museum of Art
Any art lover should not miss out on the Nevada Museum of Art. This is Nevada's only accredited art museum with an array of traveling and local exhibitions on display including modern, classical and impressionist painting and sculptures. The museum opened in May 2003 and its theme is a focus on landscape and the environment, i.e. man's effect on his surroundings.
Evening Entertainment
Of course there's no shortage of evening entertainment in Reno and one of the best shows currently going on is Floorplay at Eldorado Hotel Casino. This is a dance musical that'll have you tapping your feet as provocative dancers perform exotic and often erotic moves on the floor, combining a mix of ballroom and Latin dancing with a 21st century edge.
Lake Tahoe
But no visit to Reno would be complete without a stop at Lake Tahoe.
Did you know efforts are underway to keep the lake blue? You can find out more about this at the Tahoe Environmental Research Center. A boat is sent out to gather water samples from which researchers can determine how clear the water is. The clarity of Lake Tahoe declined over the past few decades, but in the last few years, it has actually improved. The Center says it's "committed to providing objective scientific information for restoration and sustainable use of the Lake Tahoe Basin." The Center is open to the public and is fascinating.
Sand Harbor
From there, nothing beats a serene, romantic, lunch at Sand Harbor on the lake's shore. This is one of Lake Tahoe's most popular beaches with a boat launch, picnicking and group use facilities. And it's only 3 miles south of Incline Village.
With over 300 days of sunshine, it's no wonder that Reno and Lake Tahoe are Nevada's Adventure Playground Sites. It's no wonder that little old ladies and young pups -along with everybody in between-just loves them.
For more information on Reno and Tahoe, see: www.visitrenotahoe.com