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Cook Up a Summer Feast with the U.S.A. Cookbook
By Kirsten Reinking

Rising gas and food prices have us reconsidering our travel and dining budgets this summer. But where there's a challenge there's also an opportunity. Many people are rediscovering (or discovering for the first time) an interest in cooking, because creating meals with fresh ingredients from scratch is healthy, thrifty, and a lot of fun. If you're on a quest to improve your cooking skills or want get re-inspired to cook again, building a cookbook reference library is an enjoyable task. And the U.S.A. Cookbook by chef and food writer Sheila Lukins is a valuable addition to any culinary library.

Cookbooks are more than a collection of recipes; they also teach a particular philosophy. The Betty Crocker series emphasize practicality and economy. Irma Rombauer's The Joy of Cooking aspires to create a well-rounded cook who can make both peanut butter cookies and coq au vin with equal confidence. And Julia Child taught Americans about Mastering the Art of French Cooking. In the U.S.A. Cookbook, Lukins celebrates the American spirit, taking readers on a free-wheeling, windows-rolled-down road trip through regional U.S. cuisine.

Three years in the making, U.S.A. is the result of frequent coast-to-coast trips Lukins took through the country, sampling regional dishes at diners, restaurants, festivals, state and county fairs, and private homes. As the award-winning food editor for Parade magazine (look for her Sheila's Tips™ column), Lukins brought her considerable expertise as traveler and cooking teacher to the book and rewards readers with over 600 recipes. Sidebars of fun trivia and helpful hints appear throughout the text.

The book is ambitious in its culinary as well as geographic scope. Arranged as a long menu for breakfast, coffee breaks, lunch, cocktail hour, dinnertime, and of course, dessert, the collection focuses on what Lukins calls "cozy, classic food." Although it has a thorough index, you'll probably need index cards or post-it notes to mark those recipes that catch your imagination. The recipes range from health-conscious (fruit smoothies and salads) to the indulgent ("Santa Fe Heavenly Hot Chocolate") to the really indulgent ("Super-Crispy Buttermilk Fried Chicken"). Save the last one for the picnic and first master the basics like how to properly poach an egg or the best way to bake a potato.

The recipes are easy to follow and don't require a lot of specialized, hard-to-find ingredients. However, some dishes might require a trip to the local farmer's market if your grocery store's produce is limited so you can try the "Sautéed Fiddlehead Ferns." Also presented are several Tex-Mex, Southwestern, and Cajun recipes which dovetail nicely with 2008's trend for bold and spicy flavors.

As a reader curious about history and how-to's, I appreciate the way Lukins shares background information, like her descriptions of the different types of mushrooms, the origin of the term "Blue Plate Special," and the techniques for making a good roux to give gumbo its distinct flavor. She also includes a chapter on drinks, with recipes

for favorite standards like Cosmopolitans and Sidecars, and suggestions for domestic wines and beers to accompany various dishes.

The illustrations by Carolyn Vibbert and the book's typography enhance the reading experience with a style that reminds you of laminated diner menus and rodeo posters. The recipe titles are catchy, too. You can just picture the tiara on the pageant winner "The Queen of Coconut Cakes."

Recipe by recipe, Lukins paints a picture of a bucolic American ideal. This is the America of summer and July 4th picnics, barbecues, and small town diners, a land of good-tasting food readers will associate with family dinners, parties, and carefree vacations. Leafing through the book gave me the kind of pleasant nostalgia I feel while watching a movie like Meet Me in St. Louis in which Judy Garland sings about the boy next door and the zing of her heartstrings. Lukins celebrates the spirit of people who take pleasure in the DIY ethic and a job well done, conveying an experience of shared social life. That often feels more elusive now due to today's overstretched schedules and hectic pace. But those feelings of creative discovery and pride that come from trying something new, making a complete meal, and providing for each other may be what we need to tame stress and re-connect.

So whether you want to create diner-style dishes, get ideas for your own family collection, or make tasty meals for a summer cook-out, Lukins' book is a versatile reference source.

The U.S.A. Cookbook is available as a paperback through Barnes and Noble, Borders, and Amazon.

U.S.A. Cookbook
Sheila Lukins
Workman Publishing: 605 pp.,
$19.95

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